SE Asia Trip 2012 – A Visit to Chiang Mai


Among the first things we noticed in Chiang Mai was how much cooler (temperature-wise) and cheaper it is in Northern Thailand!

Much cheaper than on Koh Phi Phi for sure. 130 baht massages, 10 baht mango slices or a 35 baht bowl of noodle soup…the cheapest prices we’ve seen!

A dish popular in the North is Khao Soi – curry noodle dish made with yellow egg noodle. We tried this at a place called Aroon Rai and it was pretty good.

Khao Soi at Aroon Rai
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Aroon Rai also had delicious homemade mango ice cream…
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Northern Thai cuisine consists of milder dishes as opposed to the spicy southern curries w/ more broccoli and cauliflower. Northern Thais also prefer eating sticky rice with their meals.

There are many vegetarian restaurants in Chiang Mai. We had lunch at one vegetarian place called Aum Restaurant. Not bad for tofu and veggies!

Mango shake and Carrot/Apple juice
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During our Chiang Mai visit we stayed within the old city walls near the north east corner – it’s a quiet area with many guesthouses, near Sompet market on Moon Mueng, the main traveller area.

The city is surrounded by moats and in some areas (such as the main gates) the medieval-style wall has been preserved.

The wall was built 700 years ago to defend against Burmese invaders.

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Temples, Temples and more Temples
There are over 300 temples in Chiang Mai. On our first day we walked around the old city and saw over 10 different temples a short walk from our guest house.

My favorite temple is the one with the ruins in the centre – Wat Chedi Luang

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More Temple pics

Wat Chedi Luang at night

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Once a handsome monk, Tan Pra Maha Kajjana changed his appearance he wouldn’t cause trouble with his good looks.

Temple being watched over by a temple dog (on the grounds of Wat Chedi Luang)

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Temple at sunset
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Three Kings Monument
According to legend, these three kings (King Mengrai – founder of Chiang Mai, King Ramkamhaeng of Sukothai and King Ngam Muang of Payao) worked together to lay out the city of Chiang Mai.

This sculpture is in front of what is now the City Art & Cultural Center (it used to be the old administration building)


We were lucky to see a Parade and festival on the grounds of Wat Phra Singh during our visit. We later asked what the celebration was about and were told it was the temple’s birthday!

We saw monks walking with performers (finger nail dance) and other people holding money trees.

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There were also food carts just outside the temple gates (a few inside as well).

We tried this dessert that looked like mini tacos (they were filled with marshmallow). Way too sweet.

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We also tried vegetarian pad thai for 15 baht (though I later regretted it).

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When we walked by the temple later on that night, the party was still on!

City Park
We visited a nice park where one could rent a mat to sit on and buy pigeon feed for the birds. It was a nice place to sit and relax.

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Temple on Hilltop – Doi Suthep
After walking around the old city checking out temples and visiting a park for a few days, we decided to go outside the city to the temple on the hilltop, Doi Suthep.

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The truck ride up was pretty bumpy. Those who suffer from motion sickness, beware. I felt a little dizzy myself after the ride and it didn’t help being squished in with 9 other ppl.

Notes:
– we took a songthaew to the Chiang Mai Zoo and then a mini bus for 40baht each (minimum 10 ppl). We had to wait awhile to get 10 ppl for that ride. So the drivers would ask if we’d go up for 50 baht or more with fewer ppl but we decided to wait for our group of 10.

Steps up to Doi Suthep

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Foreigners need to buy a ticket before entry
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Jackfruit tree on the temple grounds!
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No shoes!
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Fresh Coffee, Ice cream or Memory card!
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Shopping Time
Chiang Mai has a daily night bazaar just a short walk from Tha Pae gate. Vendor stalls go on for blocks! It gets really crowded so if you have no interest in looking at what they’re selling, it’s better not to walk through here.

Aside from the daily night bazaar which is full of tourists, there are also weekend markets where the locals shop.

The Saturday Market had really delicious noodle soup that was perfect for my tummy (hadn’t been feeling well and ate nothing but crackers for a couple days).

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A yummy bowl of soup

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What really made the markets special were the vendors who were the artists. From handmade leather purses and wallets to really beautiful hand painted bowls and key chains they sewed up on the spot, It was like a craft fair back home.

One vendor sold a bunch of roasted insects and corn. The corn was the same price as the bigger insects! We both shared a silk worm.

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Then I tried a huge cockroach which they called ‘mackerel’. It was salty and reminded me of eating a prawn head (but an empty one, inside of roach was pretty much empty).

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Note:
– Didn’t finish the roach and tried to give it to a stray dog.. He took one sniff and walked away! Even when he’s starving he knows better! Although I did see a cat eat a roach in Bangkok..

The temple grounds were open for the Sunday Market too, as some vendors also used the grounds for their stalls.

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Crowded Sunday Sunday Market – Tha Pae Gate

Busy Sunday Market video

Coconut Rice spheres – Khanom Krok

Assorted Sushi?!

They seem to love Aliens and Predator in Thailand! I’ve seen a few sculptures already!

Took this photo from the back of the songthaew and the farang covered his face (embarrassed he was with a Thai girl?)

Angry Birds street art

Notes:
– there are many more activities one can do in Chiang Mai, like cooking, art or meditation classes, a day w/ the elephants or trekking trip to visit tribe villages.
– we did a mountain biking trip (nxt blog) in Suthep national park before we took a bus to Chiang Khong to head across the border to Laos.
– border fine if you overstay in Thailand (one month visa) is 500 baht a day ~$17
– Chiang Mai was the first place I felt stomach sick. It lasted for a couple days and I ate ritz like crackers and had soda water.
-Thailand is a good place to restock on meds and first aid items. We bought more antibiotics and band aids at a pharmacy.
– For 2 months, farmers burn their fields. This has been happening for the last 10 yrs.
Our mountain biking guide told us its because the farmers then ask the government for insurance money and the soil is able to grow these special mushrooms. The soil is also better for next year’s crop. As a result the air quality is terrible! Our guide told us when he breathes in, it hurts :(- The air in northern Thailand was smokey the whole time and the same when we were in Northern Laos. Wasn’t much of a view of the city from Doi Suthep.

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